A. Gold's British Delicatessen (London Notes)
You'll be unsurprised to hear Tommy's Lo-Fi London guide was spot on. On the Stansted Express bound for Liverpool Street Station I pulled out my print-outs and after a moment squinting at the map it was clear we had to go to A. Gold's immediately. When we stepped into the shop I breathed a sigh of relief: Lovely to enter a place so utterly of its destination. A. Gold's is a dream of England, all neatly hand-printed signs and cake stands and boiled sweets in old packaging. Yet while the food in such places can taste faintly dusty -- the product of owners more attuned to a concept than the kitchen's work -- A. Gold's selection was pitch-perfect. The crunchy sweet whipped egg whites in the lemon meringue cake gently collapsed beneath a dense layer of sponge, and the sourdough baguettes had just the right chewiness. We enjoyed our sandwiches so much we returned for more before leaving for the airport. They were all out of bread but let us persuade them to make sandwiches from the heels because we were so disconsolate at the prospect of making do with Marks & Spencer Simply Food. You cannot go wrong with their egg mayonnaise mixture, which I liked so much I bought cress yesterday to make my own.
Stay tuned for a few more London highlights!
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