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Thanksgiving 2014: Turkey on the town and a pumpkin report


Short days and the early dark is back. Are you filling your kitchen with good scents too?

We got talking about Thanksgiving some weeks back. What is the best pumpkin to use for pie? Who's cooking up a Thanksgiving meal this year? In a fit of industry, a few friends and I have updated my old Thanksgiving post for 2014. And reviving the spirit of scientific inquiry, we baked up a storm, making not one but three pies to test which German pumpkin yields the best puree for pumpkin pie. Details below.

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Vienna Pictured/Not Pictured

Vienna 1

Vienna a

Vienna 2

Vienna b

Vienna 3

Vienna 5

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Vienna e

Off the night train from Berlin to Vienna and straight on to Cafe Sperl for crisp rolls slathered with apricot jam and steaming plates of ham and eggs. (Baffled and delighted that that's what they're called, rather than Schinken und Eier.)

We stayed in an anonymous, central hotel that let us walk almost everywhere, from the Naschmarkt to the prettiest stationery shop I have seen south of R.S.V.P.

An exhibition devoted to a single color is my sort of exhibition. I trailed up the concrete stairs in time to Kind of Blue

The weather was miserable which meant we were happy to linger in all the obvious places. These included Café Prückel, Café Hawelka, and Die Halle. One blessed day we escaped to Langenlois where we lapped up soup dark with pumpkin seed oil and sipped the prettily named Sturm (an Austrian Federweißer) while Loisium guests plashed about in the outdoor pool.

We came home laden with jars of apricot jam from Wachau and the prettiest bags of sugar I have ever seen.

Vienna f

Cafe Botanico: A Meal and a Tour

CafeBotanico (10)

CafeBotanico (1)

Rixdorf is magical enough, but stepping into the souterrain dining rooms of Cafe Botanico, past the upright piano and the leg of Parma, and onto the pocket-sized terrace was almost more than I could believe. "Enzo!" the older chef shouted regularly as a younger Italian man darted from the tables to the open kitchen, gathering handfuls of salad greens, dispensing Neapolitan coffee makers, and upending a dariole onto a plate to reveal a perfect chestnut semifreddo.

CafeBotanico (5)

CafeBotanico (6)

CafeBotanico (7)

David's vegetarian breakfast plate was heaped high with braised cavolo nero, sheep's cheeses, al dente legumes, and a half-dozen different herbs; S had a pungent platter of sharp salami and creamy Parma ham. My lunch was the least photogenic and the most thrilling: a spicy stew of chickpeas grounded by broth-plumped fregola and salted with a grating of bottarga. It was a dish that inspired a meditative calm.

CafeBotanico (8)

CafeBotanico (9)

Much of the menu is cooked from the back garden, and the Sunday tour was just beginning when we had to leave. I was so pleased, then, when my friend Lily was able to join Martin Höfft a few weeks later. Here is her report. (Those whose interest is piqued might take advantage of the unseasonably wonderful weather and join today's tour.)


    When I met Martin, he was standing next to a six-foot tall cabbage while a group of kids played around him. The tour of Cafe Botanico’s permaculture garden wasn’t so much a walkabout—it’s quite small—as a look into Berlin’s permaculture community. Germany has a long history of allotment gardens (Schrebergärten), a tradition which is still vital today, judging from the bubbling laughter spilling onto the street from the small garden cottages. But Martin’s garden, I soon learned, is doing something a bit different: it’s a certified organic, self-sustaining permaculture garden. (Do you know of other places growing food this way in Berlin?)
    As Martin explained, gesturing to this giant stalk, their gardening philosophy differs from the plant-seeds-and-harvest model. “We eat what’s edible and let the plant grow,” explained Martin, as he gestured towards harvesting the bottom two Markstammkohl (marrow-stem kale) leaves while letting the top leaves continue to nourish the plant. It requires less working of the soil—hence the organic designation—and less work for the gardener. Ideally, we learned, this garden lasts for generations.
    “Eating what’s edible” led Martin to feed us dried fennel seeds cracked out of a pod (delicious, as you might expect), not-so-dried fennel seeds and the green tendrils of fennel growing out of the ground. All delicious. I soon learned that permaculture means a somewhat staggering range of biodiversity. What looked at first like a tiny plot contains over 200 different types of plants, including some fascinating ones like the Ur-Kohl, the brassica that broccoli, kohlrabi, and cabbage originated from. Martin lets the seeds fall in the rich compost formed by decaying old plants. What grows back looks like a mess, but viewed through Martin’s trained eyes we see both what might be edible—quinoa, green onions, kale, pears, cherries—and the important function of the thick floor of weeds beneath our feet.
    I learned a new word on the tour, Unkraut, because most of what Martin passed around were technically weeds. In a salad, though, who would guess? These wild herbs are bracing, full-bodied, and unusual. Having an undisturbed soil bed, composted with decaying plants and  strengthened by so many interconnected roots, allows the garden to grow Unkräuter used in the cafe year round. Good news for us November visitors: the wild arugula in late October was mustardy and sharp.
    Martin’s passionate and curious stewardship of the land is contagious—by the end of the tour, I was less focused on the tiramisu and inspired to take the long view. A stunning facade looks over Cafe Botanico’s garden, and Martin explained that the land where the garden stood used to be the main road in Alt-Rixdorf, leading up to the church. What is now Richardstrasse were simply the back courtyards. This mental reversal—this hidden oasis was once the main road, now brought back to nature—was a bit dizzying. At once, I noticed the way the old trees curved around the former road, imagining this place several hundred years ago. And then again, back to the present, munching on fennel fronds, imagining a delicious and sustainable future. — by Lily Kelting


Autumn lights






Deep into the season now, yet it feels like autumn has only begun to unfold its particular lights.

On finding foods from home


We were huddled under the awning on a rainy summer’s evening at Shaniu's House of Noodles (which, in my mind, is the glorious House of Dumplings). Ash was writing down the Cantonese name for the off-menu beef and Szechuan pepper dish she had ordered for us (and which we had devoured in a thrice); Giulia was telling me about the readable, well-researched book she had just published on moving to Berlin. One regret, she mentioned, was not having enough space to write about finding American ingredients in Berlin. “You should write a guest post!” I said, and lovely Giulia, she did.


    Demerera sugar. Cane sugar. Sugar in the Raw. It’s the bane of my existence as an American! What the Germans call brauner Zucker is nothing like the sweet, wet, clumpy masses I grew up with. No, my brown sugar had to be carved out of a block with a large spoon (or a chisel if you didn’t have a microwave and piece of apple handy to soften it up). It had to be pushed down into a measuring cup with the spoon, a sandy-sweet lick its own reward....

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Peacock; Walnut



A rainy Tuesday seems the time to reflect on a radiant autumn. This tiny girl has now started school.

Lately, every sunset in Berlin has been remarkable: after the show's over and I've drawn the curtains, I bask in the glow of sunsets from other Berlin neighborhoods in my Instagram feed.

The other day we baked a cake and celebrated a friend's birthday on Peacock IslandIt's perfect in the autumn, for conker-collecting and more. The wind off the Wannsee was so strong the candle went out twice before we got it to burn long enough to sing a fast round of 'happy birthday'. The birthday girl wasn't halfway through when an avid peacock darted over and - yes! - seized her chocolate cake in his beak. A minute later, only crumbs were left.

On Sunday, we spent an idle afternoon at Cafe Botanico, about which more soon. For now, this crate of black walnut drupes and a head of mottled hydrangeas to mark the mid-point of the Cold Dew term.


Stadt Land Food Highlights


I'm sure I'm not the only Berlin foodie vibrating in anticipation of what's easily the most spectacular food event to be organized in our fair city: Stadt Land Food. As with the Berlinale, the pickings in this festival of good food are so rich as to be dizzying.

We had an early dinner at Markthalle Neun last Saturday, eating slices of Sironi pizza between sips of Heidenpeters' Holy Holunder while the market closed up around us. The festival program was everywhere, and we all fell silent as we scrutinized the listings over scoops of sour cherry ice cream from Rosa Canina. Following are a few personal highlights.




The Hidden Chefs series, organized by Kavita Meelu, stands out as an unmissable chance to meet old favorites mid-step as they go in new directions: Kristof Mulack of Kreuzberg supper club Mulax cooks up an 8-course "radical regional" dinner at the Long March Canteen; Dylan Watson of the much-fêted Jung Grün & Blau will present a liminal autumn menu from his new project, Ernst; meanwhile, Susan Choi of Mr Susan and Stefan Endres of Würgeengel will serve up a meal including "German, Korean and American cultural references". New to me is Ben Pommer, a native Berliner recently returned to his home town, whose six-course meal features thoughtful cocktail pairings.


Countless other gems events are tucked into the rest of the program. Here are a few from my diary:

Sunday 4pm: Nordic Food Lab Workshop: The first workshop in Germany by Nordic Food Lab on the pursuit of bio-cultural diversity

Friday at 6:30pm: Mountains Calling: A special edition of Ursula Heinzelmann's popular cheese talks series with Billy Wagner serving wines to complement four mountain cheeses

Friday, Saturday, and Sunday afternoon: Butter-making, food-based fairy tales and more as part of the rich children's program

Stadt Land Food, festival for good food, in and around the Markthalle Neun at Eisenbahnstraße 42, Berlin-Kreuzberg (map)