Hazelwood is night to Duckwitz's day, its gleaming furniture black, its white walls offset by red vinyl banquettes; the banquettes make a nod to the German idea of America, but this is not a Berlin 'American Diner' with its neon pulsing and stools twirling, resplendent in 50s kitsch.

The food follows modern American trends, with the burgers served on what are described as ciabatta but taste more like lovely sourdough rolls, buttery-crisp on the outside and yieldingly soft within. Our grilled cheese (we opted for cheddar) was also served on this bread, and with the crunchy contrast of red onions I was in sandwich heaven. This, after all, is what I miss, not the slices of processed cheese on plastic bread you find aping Americana elsewhere.

Hazelwood, Chorinerstr. 72 (map)
Tel. 4432 4635
Open Tue-Fri 6 pm to 11 pm (or later), Sat and Sun 10 am to midnight (or later)